Campobecerros

Rosario, is the owner of the albergue and local bar, she is 64, born here and this 

village has always been her home. She is known in the guidebooks, as an excellent host and cook.

Andrè and I arrived in Campobecerros, within a half an hour from each other. It is 2 pm and the sun is shining very strong. We are the first ones to arrive to this simple, clean albergue.

Behind us, there is a couple from Spain that I met two days ago, a woman from Australia that started the camino in Zamora and a German man that started in Sevilla. He has an incredible determination as this camino is very difficult for him, because he is very big. He weighs around 140 kg, his pack is 15 kg. Always leaves the albergues very early on the morning and last one arriving. We often worry about him and when we coincide in the camino, we slow down and walk beside him to give him strength. I have an incredible respect for him, in walking his first camino.

Rosario serves us the same food that she has cooked for her family, who are sitting next to us in a rectangle table. The head of the table is Marcos a cute 3 yr old, her grandson.

Caldo gallego (gallego soup) steak with potatoes and vegetables. To start, she offers us a taste of their home cured dry jamon and a plate of home made chesse. After the aperitif, I was already full !! The wine is also delicious and my favority type of white wine.

Andrè and I are not able to finish all the food that she has prepared us and it is hard to leave it in the serving tray.

Rosario is sitting next to us, tells me that there is 30 families living in this village and three children in total. "Life is very hard here the climate very extreme, very hot and very cold. The only work is cultivating the fields to feed the animals. The young people have left to the bigger towns or cities and there are only old people left here."

Via de la Plata passing through these very small villages, has given them a little economy, also exposure to the different cultures, nationalities and a vision of the world. 

The locals often ask me many questions and to translate between languages.

The walk today kept us high, there was very few trees around, lots of flowering purple  heathers as far as I could see.

Tomorrow, I will have a 16 km descend to Laza and then a 12 km ascend to Albergaria, where, I will stay for the night.