Sanabria Way

In Granja de Moruela, the Camino divides in two. You can go north to Astorga and meet the Camino Francés to Santiago or west through Sanabria and Ourense to Santiago.

Nine years ago, I walked Astorga to Santiago. For me there was no doubt that I would take the Camino Sanabres to complete my VDLP.

The landscape has changed again, as I pass through more little villages and the distances between albergues not as long. Many of these small villages don't have a store or coffee shop/restaurant. The houses are mostly made out of beautiful stone and together with the oak beams, have stood this region's extreme weather over the years.

I like people, I often stop and talk to the persons in the villages, to learn about their lives. They all have something in common, as they tell me that in the villages, there are only old persons left.

Tonight I am in Asturianos, a very small village that has a municipal albergue that sleeps six.There are five of us here tonight. During my walking today, I did not see any of my piligrim friends, sometimes it felt lonely but the smiles of the inhabitants that I meet, give me the energy to walk. The lady at the restaurant tells me that there is only one child in this town. A nine year old girl.

He is 94 years old, has lived in this village all his life. It is very hot, the sun is shinning strong, but he is dressed as if it was very cold. He smiles as I pass by and tells me about his donkey. She is a beautiful long hair donkey, 22 years old. Every day he takes her out to collect and bring home firewood. She has a name (that I can't remember). He went to Santiago once and he is very thankful for his health.

She is 95 years old, when I passed her village of 12 inhabitants this morning, she was wearing a faded red housecoat. The wrinkles of her face, disapeared, when looking into her serene smiling eyes. Her husband is sitting by the little stone church with his walking stick on his hand. Every day someone comes from a nearby village, to spend one hour with them and ensure that they are well. She invites me into her house and I drink some water.

Two km's past a town, I see a bus stop shelter, and when I am close, I see two older men and a woman sitting . I stop and I ask them if they are waiting for the bus? They tell me "No, we come here, to see the piligrims walk by".

I dedicate these last days of walking to all these special persons that I meet along the way. They have worked their land so hard, built their homes, raised their children. Have lived in a Spain pre and post civil war. Now, as their lifes come to a completion, their smiling eyes, gestures, hospitality and kind words, have enriched my life.



I am very thankful to them.

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